Google| Subject | Re: As with our trolls, the problem wasn't the Mac Pro itself... It's the problem with the morons wh |
| From | -hh |
| Date | 02/21/2014 16:14 (02/21/2014 07:14) |
| Message-ID | <d6348d61-927f-4f93-8ed3-95cfcb30f1a2@googlegroups.com> |
| Client | |
| Newsgroups | comp.sys.mac.advocacy |
| Follows | Nashton |
| Followups | Lloyd E Parsons (8h & 16m) |
Nashton wrote:
NashtonNote to Nicolas: these are two separate statements made by two different people, and both statements are clearly phrased as broad generalizations.
Lloyd E Parsons wrote:Lloyd E Parsons
sms said:smsLloyd E Parsons
If you're buying a vehicle with poor resale value, and plan to keep it only 3-5 years, and there's a good lease deal, then leasing can be a better deal than buying.
In general only low mileage lease deals are better than buying. If you drive a lot, leasing can be no better than buying and sometimes even worse.
[Maxima]
Nashton
If I had bought, my payments would have been close to $600 and with leasing, I'm paying $390/month with the same down payment.
...my mileage will be close to 20000 klms/year (hardly a low klm lease).20,000 kilometers/year = 12,500 miles. That's a below average number of miles as far as the industry is concerned, as the National Average is IIRC 15,000 miles/year. Of course, there can also be found leases with even lower mileage restrictions.
At the end of the lease, residual value is $10000. My lease is for 24000 klm/year ...Yup, 15,000 miles/year. Very average.
... I can turn around and buy the car and sell it for $13000, .. [$3K net]Speculation.
Let's do some math.
$200 savings month for 5 years. $210 x 60 is $12600 in savings.So is it $200 or is it $210? Not that it really is significant, but it illustrates your sloppy analytical skills.
If I get $13000 for the car at the end of the lease, I even make a profit of $3000.Again, speculation. Also don't forget paying applicable taxes on that additional transaction.
Total savings: $15600 over 5 years, on a car that I would not have kept anyway beyond 5 years.Which is a strict conditional requirement: you cannot keep the vehicle even a week longer than 5.0 years without a significant change in cost/expenses. Remember "Cost-Schedule-Performance"? You have a risk-based expense that you're trying to ignore here. FYI, there is the potential for a hidden cost in Gap Insurance factors too.
To boot, my company pays me 45 cents/klm, so it's at a minimum cost to me considering the tax savings, which would have not changed if I bought it outright.Ah, so it _is_ a business expense deduction after all; so much for *personal* affluence claims.
Can you now explain why and how there is any truth in your tired platitudes about low resale values, low mileage and the rest, when I just proved that I''l be saving in excess of $15000 over the course of 5 years as opposed to buying?Here's an alternative perspective, based on your own numbers:
Your 5 Year Lease: "X" Deposit + 60*$390 = ($23,400 + X) spent. Residual value at end = $0 Net outlay = $0 - ($23,400 + X) = ($23,400 + X)
Notional 5 Year Loan: "X" Deposit + 60*$600 = ($36,000 + X) spent Residual value at end = $13,000 (per your claim, remember?) Net outlay = $13,000 - ($36,000 + X) = ($23,000 + X)
Outlays comparison: Lease minus Buy = ($23,400 + X) - ($23,000 + X) = $400
Ergo, buying is $400 cheaper than leasing. Using _your_own_ numbers.
I can go on 2 vacations a year on the money I'm saving, fer Christ's sake
02/07/2014-
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